Mountain Sheep |
An elderly couple walked by with their dog and we got talking about the view. The chap spotted I was from across the Atlantic, uncanny that, and he told me about the multiple trips he had taken to Manchester and once to Birmingham. He had experienced difficulty in following the Mancunian accent, but surprisingly understood mine. I mentioned I had studied in Manchester in the late 60s early 70s, and my eldest daughter studied there 30 years later. Over that period Manchester had undergone a tremendous transformation kicked off by the IRA bombing that took place there. He had enjoyed the city, and then went on to relate to me visits he had to the football grounds and how tribal warfare was almost breaking out. He had also attended a rugby match and a cricket match, though the latter both baffled and bored him. But I thought good for him, he had actually made the effort. The couple were city people on vacation from the east of the country, and joked how it was cheaper for them to travel to London than it was for them to get across to this side.
I headed back into Banff to visit a couple of museums. I would recommend the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies. It contained an exhibition as a tribute to the spirit, vision, commitment and creative energy of one of the early pioneer families in Banff and the Bow Valley, the Luxton family. The family, who made their living primarily out of the media at the time, put Banff on the map and were leading figures in getting tourism established in the town through events such as Indian Days and Christmas Markets. The museum also included a section on fashion which I avoided, and an art gallery featuring amongst others, the work of Bern Smith, whose paintings captured the essence of the Bow Valley area.
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The Moore Residence was built by Philip Moore and Pearl Brewster Moore in 1907, the same year they were wed. In 1889 Pearl was reportably the first white child born in Banff, to dairy operators John and Bella Brewster.
Banff was a thriving, bustling little town with a lot of cultural heritage to offer, as well as hiking and tourist oriented activities. I would gladly have stopped one more day to do some hiking, but I needed to get across to the Cowboy Trail. Just as I was leaving the town I called in at an information centre seeking literature on the trail. I mentioned the route I intended to take which skirted the eastern flanks of the Rockies for a while before joining the trail on Highway 22. It was just as well, I was informed that one of the passes was completely blocked.
So, I headed east in the Calgary direction, and very soon I was driving along very straight, long roads with the surrounding countryside becoming gently undulating hills. I knew that past Calgary lay the prairies. Looking back west, it appeared as though the Rockies reared up as an abrupt boundary, a wall of defence against would be travelers heading west. They must have presented a formidable sight to the early pioneers and settlers. Before lay a blue sky with the occasional fluffy white cloud and dark cloud. Then I saw an event that I'd never witnessed before, a bolt of lightening between cloud and ground, with a blue sky background. On all other occasions I have seen lightening, it has always been in an overcast, gray sky environment. The contrast between the lightening bolt and the blue background was amazing.
Nodding Donkey |
I came across several "nodding donkies" by the roadside, one of which I stopped by for a closer look. The smell left me in no doubt as to what was being pumped out. The road continually hugged the Rockies, keeping a respectful 5 miles or so away. Then, all of a sudden I was distracted by a long fence that followed the road for miles and miles. What was unique about the fence was that all the fence posts had hats on them. Predominantly they were baseball hats, but included were flat caps, Stetsons and even soldiers helmets. I could only imagine this to be some form of conceptual art on display.
I passed through very few small one street villages with their quota of fast food outfits and small stores, the architecture of some resembling old cowboy towns.
Chain Lakes |
I walked around the large site, most of it empty, and I came across a large group of what appeared to be regulars of the site. They had booked one of the big community huts and were cooking herds of steak for their party in the hut. I learned from them that this would be the last season for this campsite; government cutbacks were in effect.
The sun dipped behind the horizon and the temperature started to drop dramatically. The skies were clear, it was going to be another cold night.