I had to collect some things from the van, so while there I turned the engine over to see if the blasted charging circuit was still dead. To my surprise the warning lamp didn't come on. I knew it was just waiting to catch me out exactly when I didn't want it to, but for the time being I felt easier, and decided to enjoy the city.
I strolled down Douglas Street to the Royal London Wax Museum where I could catch one of the London bus sightseeing tours. They are an effective way of covering a large area in a small time, and if the tour guide has done his homework, you learn a lot that you wouldn't find in leaflets.
Seagull Eating a Crab |
Empress Hotel |
Back to the tour. First of all the Empress Hotel was pointed out to us. It was at the head of James Bay. The bay had at one time been backfilled with rubble, and this is where the hotel now sits. It is a place to go for ordering top class curry lunches or full English afternoon teas. The land section of James Bay is also the oldest part of town. A little history won't go amiss here. As Americans settled in Oregon territory in the 1840s, the Hudson Bay Company decided to move its headquarters from Fort Vancouver on the Columbian River, and sent Chief Factor James Douglas north to find a new location. He chose the site where Victoria is situated, and in 1843 built the fort eventually named "Fort Victoria" in honour of the young British Queen Victoria. By 1862, Victoria was a sea of mud, with no lights, no water supply and goats wandering the streets; it was apparent that a civic government would be required. Incorporated as a city in 1862, Victoria became "The Queen City of the Pacific Possessions of Her Majesty, Queen Victoria". In 1866, the colony of Vancouver Island merged with the Colony of British Columbia and Victoria became the capital city. However, the Fraser River gold rush soon ended and the Colonial administration was in debt. By the late 1860s, the colony had three choices: remain a colony, join the USA, or join the new Confederation of Canada. Most merchants were American, and together with the prominent citizens, petitioned the American Government seeking annexation. However, the purchase of Russian Alaska by the USA in 1867, tipped the balance. British Columbia joined Canada in 1871.
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The driver negotiated the streets the best way he could. A detour across to Victoria West took us to where a huge Esso storage depot used to stand. Recent years have seen such monstrosities move elsewhere. Nowadays in Victoria the condominium is king, and condos have sprung up all around this area. The people living in new condos in this area didn't want tour busses driving by, didn't like the ship noises coming from the harbour, nor the sound of seaplanes, of which there are plenty. They went to court to put a stop to it all. The judge called them C.A.V.E. people (Citizens Against Virtually Everything) and threw the case out of court.
The journey carried on to Oak Bay. This area was an English outpost. Lots of English folk lived here. It really was a little England, a glorified retirement centre. Indeed lots of people settled down in Victoria to retire. It was thought that in just a few years one third of the population will be over 65. The climate helps. Victoria enjoys the Japan Stream, similar to the Gulf Stream. The east coast of the island experiences the full brunt of the Canadian winter though. As a consequence of this mild climate, the majority of trees are deciduous, unlike their northern counterparts.
From Oak Bay, we followed the coast around back to James Bay, spotting the San Juan Islands, which belong to the USA, and later the Olympic Mountains in Washington State could just be made out. I also spotted some of the sailing boats creeping back with their spinnakers lazily drifting in the minutest of breezes.
Tong Ji Men Gate |
Chinese Public School |
Nearby I located the Victoria Maritime Museum. That was fatal, I spent well over an hour learning about the maritime history of Victoria, and The Canadian Navy which had a base at Esquimalt on Victoria West.
I left the museum in pouring rain, and took refuge in the IMAX theatre to take in an excellent undersea world documentary. Seemed like hundreds of others were doing likewise. With the film finished, I headed up to Beacon Hill Park, an unspoiled grassy area with its share of rocky outcrops, gardens, man made lakes and children's play areas. I stumbled across a league fastball (amateur baseball) match taking place. I studied it for a while and got the gist of the tactics from some young lads standing by. Further on I came across a cricket match with two Asian Indian teams competing. Tennis and crown-green bowling could also be found in the park making up a cosy English feel.
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House Boat Street |
I reflected on Victoria and how quintessentially it represents England: the architecture, cuisine, shops, recent history, the dress code of the young, how the young congregated in the evenings. With cricket matches and crown-green bowling, you could be in Bournemouth. Down by the harbour, a clock was chiming on the hour, exactly mimicking Big Ben, and bagpipes could be heard playing. Everybody was friendly and spoke as they passed by. One thing I did observe, there was an acute shortage of "homeless people" and beggars here. I would have liked more time here, but sadly it was time to move on.